Have you ever wondered what Vietnamese cuisine is like outside of Vietnam?
There
have been numerous articles about Vietnamese food in faraway lands, such as
Australia and the United States, thanks to the large Vietnamese diaspora in
these places. However, not much is known about Vietnamese cuisine in
neighboring countries, especially in my homeland: a little sunny island about a
2 hour flight away from Saigon called Singapore.
If
you happen to be there and have a sudden craving for authentic phở, hủ tiếu Nam Vang and bánh xèo, would be able to find them?
Well the good news is, yes, you can.
Now,
you might be thinking, “no, wait. It’s going to be super expensive”! Well,
you’re both right and wrong. You’re right that Vietnamese food in Singapore can
be overwhelmingly pricey, however, if you know where to look, and don’t mind a
little bit of adventure while searching, you can actually find a decent bowl of
phở for almost the same price as in Saigon. Curious? Read on.
Image source: cdn.vox-cdn.com
First
of all, a little background information. Due to Singapore’s proximity to
Vietnam, and the large number of Vietnamese students and professionals who’ve
moved to Singapore to study and work, there has been an explosion of eateries
catering to this demographic over the last decade. Most of these eateries were
opened either by Vietnamese migrants, or enterprising Singaporeans with a love
for Vietnamese cuisine.
So
here comes the disclaimer: the dishes here may be authentic, but they aren’t
region-specific. To a Singaporean, a phở
is a phở, regardless of whether it’s
prepared in the style typical of Saigon or Hanoi.
The
eateries featured here have some of the best Vietnamese food you can find in
Singapore, and some of them are also highly recommended by Vietnamese people
who have visited the country or live there. They are listed from “as pricey as
you’d expect” to “for real”?
Saigon Alley
Located
in Novena Gardens along Thomson Road, Saigon Alley is the closest you can get
to an authentic upper-class dining experience in Saigon, save two details: the
impressive English proficiency of the mainly Vietnamese staff and the prices.
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One
of their most popular dishes, spicy Australian beef noodles, costs about SGD14
(VND240,000). For that price you’ll get something that looks like bún bò Huế, but with a slightly spicier
broth, and with a very generous serving of sliced Australian beef and brisket,
as well as herbs like mint and basil. They are also quite well known for their
fresh spring rolls, which are actually new interpretations because you won’t
find these versions in Vietnam.
The
fresh Vietnamese tiger prawn rolls are huge, simply because of the size of the
prawn, which is tightly packed into and yet, still clearly visible through the
rice paper. The crab spring rolls are another great variation, containing a
generous amount of real crab meat. Each roll costs SGD8 (VND137,000).
Although
the dishes are pricey, it’s probably one of the best places in Singapore to get
delicious Vietnamese food, including a few imaginative variants of popular
Vietnamese dishes in a clean restaurant with great ambience. Perfect if you’re
missing Vietnam, and have money to spend.
Nam Nam Noodle Bar
I
experienced Vietnamese food for the first time in my life on a rainy day in
Singapore in 2013. I walked past this restaurant in Raffles City, and my friend
remarked that she had “heard some good things about this place”, so we decided
to check it out. It didn’t change my life, but it definitely opened my eyes
because it’s where I had my first phở.
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What
I found interesting about Nam Nam is that there is a huge diagram on the wall
that teaches you how to eat phở. The
restaurant specialises in Hanoi phở,
and the toppings range from chicken (SGD9.90/VND170,000), to beef steak slices
(SGD10.90/VND187,000), and medium rare Wagyu beef (SGD19.90/VND341,000).
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You
can also find bánh mì with toppings
such as smoked salmon, cold-cut meats, and caramelised pork belly for
not-so-authentic prices, like VND130,000.
GET
THERE
Sandwich Saigon
Cafe
Just
by its name, you know this entry is going to be all about bánh mì. Sandwich Saigon Cafe has some of the best bánh mì you will find outside Vietnam
with just one drawback: it costs about SGD7 (VND120,000), which is about 10
times the price of what you’ll get in Saigon.
However,
if you look beyond the price, the authenticity of the taste, texture and ingredients
will remind you of Vietnam. This is the place Singaporeans go after returning
from a trip to Vietnam to recapture their favourite food moments. Vietnamese
expats also head to this place when they start missing the tastes of home.
The
bánh mì xíu mại is to die for, with
its giant pork meatballs and vegetables. One additional condiment used here is
mayonnaise, which is not commonly used in Vietnam. But it works like a charm.
The
baguette is crusty, yet airy, a perfect contrast of crunchiness and softness in
one bite. There are also a wide range of fillings available, such as
pork-chops, garlic chicken, roast beef and more.
Little Vietnam
Restaurant and Cafe
Located
at Grandlink Square in Singapore’s Geylang district, Little Vietnam is a
charming little eatery serving decently-priced Vietnamese fare in a comfortable
setting.
They
are known for their fried spring rolls, which are served in sets of 5, for SGD5
(VND86,000). Filled with chicken, vegetables and glass noodles, the rolls are
slightly larger than what you’d find in Vietnam and are deep-fried to
perfection.
They
have a pretty huge menu with offerings such as chạo tôm going for SGD5 (VND86,000), gỏi ngó sen for SGD6 (VND103,000) and phở, starting from SGD6, depending on what toppings you choose.
The
bún thịt nướng served here costs
about SGD6 (VND103,000) but looks and tastes exactly like what you find in
Vietnam. It’s a very popular dish in this restaurant.
Take
note that if you’re planning to have a beer here you will need to reserve a
table inside the restaurant due to alcohol restriction laws in Singapore. You
can’t drink outside the establishment. The place is very popular and often
filled to capacity so making a reservation is highly recommended.
Earlier
in the article, I mentioned that if you know where to look, you can find some
excellent Vietnamese food at almost authentic prices. Here are two places you
might want to consider. One of them will be a bit of an adventure.
Saigon Food Street
For
fans of bánh xèo, this is probably
one of the best places in Singapore to get authentic versions of the famous
Vietnamese crepe.
Located
in Bukit Panjang Hawker Center, Saigon Food Street is actually a stall in a
residential neighbourhood accompanied by other street food stalls. This means
that you can choose your seat, and buy a variety of dishes from different
stalls at the same time.
The
hawker center is a Singaporean concept, in which a bunch of street food vendors
are centralised in one complex. It is the model behind Ben Thanh Street Food
Market in Saigon’s District 1.
The
bánh xèo in this stall is priced at
SGD5 (VND86,000) and is made to order. With fresh and succulent shrimp and
slices of delicious pork wrapped up in a razor-thin pancake, it’s as good as
some of the best bánh xèo I’ve tried
in Saigon.
Video source: eatbook.sg
You
can also find other dishes at authentic Saigon prices, like phở for SGD2.50
(VND43,000) and spring rolls for SGD5 (VND86,000).
Thien Long
Vietnamese Restaurant
If
you take Bui Vien and compress the entire street into one building, you will
get Orchard Towers, one of the seediest parts of Singapore and also
colloquially known as the “four floors of whores”.
Made
up of establishments where you can find some of the cheapest booze in the
country, massage parlours and gogo bars, it’s also home to one of the best and
most affordable Vietnamese eateries you will ever find in Singapore.
Located
on the 4th level, Thien Long is one of only two eateries along the stretch with
tables and chairs spilling onto the walkway. It is also where you will find the
best hủ tiếu Nam Vang and bánh canh cua in Singapore for only
about SGD5 (VND86,000).
Although
their regular phở is not bad, they
have a “spicy” version, which remains one of the best post-drinking supper
recommendations I can give. I should also add that this restaurant doesn’t
close until 4:00 am.
Video source: eatbook.sg
So,
if you’re in Singapore and suddenly feeling a massive craving for Vietnamese
food at 3 in the morning, you don’t want to empty your wallet, and you don’t
mind some chaos along the way, then head to Thien Long Vietnamese Restaurant.
Source: citypassguide.com