Phu Yen is considered a tuna capital because fishermen in
the sea village of Phu Cau (Ward 6, Tuy Hoa City) were the first to know how to
fish for tuna and develop the trade in 1994. Born in this village, Mr. Nguyen
Ngoc Son knows a lot about how to cook different dishes of tuna.
In the 1990’s, Mr. Son opened a restaurant
named “Son Cau Go” located in Tuy Hoa City along the embankment of the Da Rang
river. The restaurant is built out of a tent, but very good with all different
styles of fish and seafood. It has become a spot where people from all walks of
life go to eat.
Mr. Son said that before tuna became a high
value product for export fisherman used only its body to make fish sauce, and
would throw away the head since it had no market value. Some fishermen felt it
would be a waste to throw away the head of a big tuna like that, so they
thought of how to cook the eye as a snack to have with a drink.
“In 1998 or 1999, I don’t remember exactly, I
first tried to steam a tuna eye to improve the preparation and enhance the
taste. I introduced it to our customers. I didn’t expect that they would like
it so much!” Mr. Son recalls from memory.
Tuna is a big fish so its eye is also very
big, weighing up to 100 to 200 kg each. If we choose a simple way to cook then
we just put it into a ceramic bowl; season and steam. But if we want to make
the Ocean Flash dish and serve it in a restaurant we need to go to the fishing
port and select only the eyes which are still fresh (it means the fish has been
well stored), still with the surrounding cartilage and wash it carefully. We
then blanch it quickly in boiling water to eliminate its fishy smell before
preparing to cook.
Picture: Deep fried tuna eye at 2015 Golden Spoon Contest - Photo: Van Thanh
The ingredients that are then mixed together
in a bowl with the eye are tomato sauce and pineapple. They also help to
eliminate any remaining smell, create a good fragrance and soften the meat.
Besides that there are also slices of red chili, pepper, onion, soya sauce and
salt. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes in the steamer to properly cook the eye
and absorb the spices. Then the chef will chop perilla, herbs, basil, mint and
any other herbs, and place them together on a small plate to be presented
alongside the dish.
When you open the lid the hot smoke comes out
along with the fragrance of cooked fish and spices. So the dish is not only
eye-catching but also stimulates the taste of all the diners with its smell.
Using chopsticks take a little bit of the herbs and add into the hot broth,
cooking it quickly. Use a spoon to cut a piece of the cooked eye and eat. All
the flavors of the food, fat and spices spread on your tongue.
In order to keep the dish hot during the
meal, the crockery bowl is usually put on a ceramic dish with a bed of alcohol
which is then set alight. This creates a very impressive image for diners
before eating.
... To Ocean Flash
cooked a thousand different ways
The Ocean Flash dish has become one of the
most outstanding specialties that Phu Yen’s people would like introduce to
friends all over the world. Tourists can find the dish throughout the province
at any place from the common sidewalk shop to a 5-star restaurant. In most food
contests chefs of restaurants and hotels in Phu Yen often present this dish as
their signature.
Picture:Tuna eye stewed with pumpkin - Photo Duong Thanh Xuan
“The traditional method of preparing tuna eye
is by steaming. To move beyond this one method the restaurants ended up
creating the Ocean Flash by stewing it with Chinese herbs,” said Mr. Nguyen
Minh Chanh, a 68 year old experienced seafood chef at Sau Quang restaurant (Phu
Lam ward, Tuy Hoa City).
“Together with spices mentioned above, other
Chinese herbs are also put in the bowl such as jujube (Chinese dates, ginseng,
ginger or more. It creates not only a new taste, but also has health benefits
like boosting immune system, improves digestion and keeps the flavors of the
dish while diners eat it at a leisurely pace.” explained Mr. Chanh.
“But if we just serve a bowl of steamed tuna
eye or steam it with Chinese herbs the customer will eat it only once and won’t
be excited to return. Or if we want to enroll this dish in the contest this
year we need to figure out what to do differently to enter it again the next year.
Therefore we always study and research new ways to improve this specialty. It
is also a way to renew your own knowledge,” shared Mr. Nguyen Tan Tai – Chef of
Hung Vuong hotel in Tuy Hoa City
His team presented the deep fried tuna eye
served with banana flower salad in the preliminary round of 2015 Golden Spoon
contest organized in Nha Trang city (Khanh Hoa province). The fresh tuna eye
was left in Chinese herbs for 10 to 15 minutes, then poached in boiling water
to eliminate any smell. It was then dried before covered with a thin layer of
flour.
“When the oil boils we then fry the fish eye
for just a few minutes. When diners bite into it, the crispness of the flesh
and surrounding cartilage is complemented by a bit of the banana flower salad.
There is a sweet and salty taste plus the richness of the fat combined with the
aroma is quite different than if Ocean Flash was steamed or stewed,” shared
Chef Tai.
Chef Tran Cao Phong Vu of the Bai Tram
Hideaway Resort (Song Cau Town, Phu Yen province) also found another way to
make the Ocean Flash - stewed with pumpkin. Instead of using the crockery bowl
he hollowed out a pumpkin. Inside he places the eye with additional ingredients
such as more pumpkin, radish, onion, green pepper. He then bakes, and the
pumpkin then becomes part of the dish.
Other restaurants in Phu Yen also modify the
recipe in many different ways, such as stewed with lotus seeds, steamed with
eggs and others.
“Because of its
popularity Ocean Flash is now available for delivery throughout the country. If
a customer orders fresh tuna eye then we will freeze and deliver with a recipe
on how to prepare, and which spices to choose. Or a customer can order it
pre-cooked and have it shipped. Then a customer need only warm it up and enjoy
it immediately” shared Mr. Son.
The unique feature of Phu Yen
cuisine
Phu Yen has two specialties which are tuna and O Loan blood
cockle that are in the list of the top 10 popular seafood specialties in
Vietnam, as voted by the Vietnam Record Association. This is a good opportunity
to allow Phu Yen to advertise about its land and people through the uniqueness
of the local cuisine. Nowadays many shops and restaurant in Phu Yen have cooked
this dish in their own way. In the 2014 seafood festival in Phu Yen there was a
cuisine contest with a theme called “Tuna - Elite of the Sea”. It was aimed to
advertise this specialty to tourist. All dishes were made of tuna and one of
the most popular and attractive to tourists was the tuna eye dish.
Mr Pham Van Bay (Deputy of Department of Culture, Sports and
Tourism Phu Yen)
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