For the Ê Đê people, no meal is really complete without a fruit that is a rare ingredient in other cuisines – cà đắng – bitter eggplant.
Ribbing it in: Soup made with bitter eggplant and young pig’s ribs. — Photo cooky.vn
For
something that tastes bitter to be a constant in most dishes, the chefs have to
be creative, and the Ê Đê have shown that they have this quality aplenty, given
the number of delicious dishes that use this fruit – like dried fish brined
with bitter eggplant or ground bitter eggplant.
For
the Ê Đê, it is not just a matter of taste: while the bitterness makes the
dishes more appetizing, the fruit also boosts the immune system and prevents
iillness.
The
bitter eggplant grows will and abundant on mountainsides and at the foot of
mountains. The plant has small thorns on its body and leaves, with attractive,
small purple flowers. The fruit is small, round and…you guessed it, bitter.
However,
its popularity has taken this plant from mountainous wilderness to the gardens
of both Ê Đê and Kinh people, who now cultivate it as a favoured vegetable.
The
secret to Ê Đê bitter eggplant recipes is simplicity.
“The
fruit can be cut into two or four pieces which will then be soaked in salt
water. The eggplants are particularly bitter so they can also be scalded with
hot water to alleviate its bitterness,” said H Linh Niê, a chef from Yang Sing
Restaurant in Buôn Ma Thuột City.
At
first, the bitterness of the fruits might be unpleasant, but this is
compensated by its special flavour and buttery taste. Gourmets enjoy the sweet
aftertaste that lingers on the palate.
One
of the most popular dishes in the Central Highlands is ground bitter eggplant,
which is a mixture of fresh ingredients and spices. There is no Ê Đê man, woman
or child, who does not enjoy this dish. The spiciness of peppers, sourness of
limes, the distinct aroma of some herbs and the bitter eggplant make for a
mouthwatering combination.
Better
still, this is a simple dish that can be made in quick time. The eggplants are
cut into small pieces, and a piece of lime, some pepper and cilantro are added.
These are washed, put into a bamboo section and ground.
The
addition of ắc leaves gives this dish
its most distinctive flavour. Spicy and sour, the ground bitter eggplants can
be eaten with rice.
“The
main taste of this dish is both spicy and bitter, but not overly so. Customers
will not like it if the dish is too bitter,” said H Lenna Byă, a local chef in
Akô Dhông Village.
Smashed hit: Ground bitter eggplant, one of the most popular dishes in the Central Highlands. — Photo daubao.com
Fruitful: The bitter eggplant grows abundantly in Việt Nam’s Central Highlands. — Photo dantri.com.vn
Food on our table: Ê Đê women pose with their daily meal. — Photo vcmedia.vn
Appetizing sight: Bitter eggplant and fried fish soup. — Photo bp.blogspot.com
Meaty companions
Initially,
the bitter eggplant was cooked mainly with dried fish, but it has since begun
to accompany many other meats, including pork, beef, frog, eel and snail. Some
local cooks make a soup with bitter eggplant, chicken organs, dried fish and
canned meat.
One
of the most delicious dishes made with bitter eggplant is with beef tripe. This
is said to carry the authentic flavour of the Central Highlands, with some
gourmets arguing that it is only when people begin to sweat from the spiciness
of the dish that that they have “touched” the Central Highlands’ culinary
culture.
“I
have had the chance to try bitter eggplant dishes cooked by the locals many
times,” said Vũ Hoàng Anh of Buôn Ma Thuột City. “They are uniquely delicious.”
In
keeping with the times, the Ê Đê have begun using “new” ingredients and modern
cooking methods into their food culture, but the bitter eggplants are still
central to their cuisine.
Many
people have compared bitter eggplant to coffee, bitter at first, addictive
later.
The
good news is that these dishes are not just served within local families these
days; the fruit has been added to the menus of many restaurants and become an
attraction to many visitors wishing to taste the authentic flavours of Việt
Nam’s Central Highland cuisine.
By Phương Hà/
VNS