His has a great passion for the simple things, like baking a bread with very good aroma, the sweetness of honey and refined dishes
Chef Norbert Ehrbar
New future
Norbert started his career as a chef when he was just 16
years old and realized that cooking is his greatest passion. He is at his
happiest when cooking good dishes and presenting them in a beautiful way for
everyone to enjoy. In 1989 with more than 13 years of experiences working in
most of various fields in restaurant or food preparation industry Norbert came
to HCM city to work at the “Nổi” hotel means “Floating hotel”.
There were very few foreigners in the city then, so
Nobert felt that everything was very new and strange, especially the daily
rhythm of the street. This rhythm seemed easier than America because there
weren’t so many cars in the city. At the same time it was more exciting because
of Saigon’s weather. Besides, Saigon people always smile, laugh and talk a lot.
There weren’t many modern buildings in those days, and the central part of the
city was still full of French architecture, which is classic, beautiful and
romantic. Women in those days were also more discreet and slender.
Chefs faced many challenges in Ho Chi Minh City when the
country first opened the door to them, because food markets weren’t completely
open then. It was difficult to find the right ingredients with which to prepare
food to international standards for high class customers. International chefs
then had to use high levels of creativity and management in order to please
diners. Throughout his 18 years in Vietnam, Norbert has many happy and sad
memories about his career. He remembered that on one occasion, he asked his
assistant to bring eggs but was misheard and ended up with frogs’ legs instead! Whilst this is funny on
the face of it, with the tension in the kitchen a small mistake can mean a
delay and an unhappy guest.
Norbert remembers the hard times for chefs who trained in
Vietnam. Vietnamese people prepare and serve food in a different way. Therefore
changing habits and cooking methods to follow international standards, takes a
lot of time . The most challenging thing is to help them to understand Western
culinary culture methods. To be able to do that the apprentice chef has to
change both their perception and thinking. Because to become a professional
chef a case of mastering the recipes but also has understanding the culture.
In the 1990s, all utensils, means of communication and
teaching of Western cuisine, were still very rare. Teachers had to take their
time when imparting knowledge. In return, Norbert remembered the joy when he
witnessed his students mature from timid individuals to become competent and
confident in international cooking competitions.
Another joy for Norbert is learn new things everyday from
the chefs he is coaching. He is proud of his Vietnamese cooking, particularly
things like spring rolls, beef rolled in piper lolot leaves, stewed beef and
fried rice.Among other interesting facts
about him is that he used to support and represent Vietnamese delegations at
food fairs and international tourism in Hong Kong, Singapore, Korea, Malaysia
and China.
Getting to know about Solanum macrocarpon (small, white
tomatoes) and shrimp paste
Khi Khách sạn Nổi rời khỏi Việt Nam, Norbert quyết định ở
lại. Ông tiếp tục lăn lộn, làm việc ở nhiều nơi và dần dần coi TP. Hồ Chí Minh
là quê hương thứ hai của mình. Ở đây Norbert đã có những người bạn đồng cam
cộng khổ, thân tình nhất là vợ chồng một người từng là cấp dưới của ông thời
còn làm việc ở Nhà hàng Nổi. Năm 1999, vợ chồng người bạn này quyết định thành
lập Công ty Nhất Nam, hoạt động trong lĩnh vực xuất nhập khẩu thực phẩm.
Norbert được mời về tham gia xây dựng công ty trong vai trò chuyên viên tư vấn
và là bếp trưởng cho nhà hàng. Người vợ nay là giám đốc còn nhắc lại thời gian
ở Khách sạn Nổi chị đã được Norbert huấn luyện, chỉ dẫn nhiệt tình và nhẫn nại
như thế nào. “Còn bây giờ tôi là nhân viên của cô ấy!” - Norbert cười vui vẻ
tiếp lời.
When “Nổi” hotel close its Vietnamese operations, Norbert
decided to stay. He continued to live and work
many places in the city and gradually grew to consider Ho Chi Minh City as his second
home. Norbert had good friends that went through a lot together. Two of these
are a couple (husband and wife) who used to be on his staff. In 1999, they
decided to establish Nhat Nam Company, operating in the field of food
importation. Norbert was invited to participate in building the company as a
consultant and chef of the restaurant. The wife is now vice president she
recalled her time at the hotel, where she was coached and taught patience and
enthusiasm by Norbert. “And now I am her employee," Norbert cheerfully said after her.
Although he has a great passion for cooking, Norbert has
very simple tastes. He has never denied eating street food shop in Vietnam.
Norbert is interested in reviewing cuisine development in Vietnam and commented
that it seems Vietnam cuisine has been gradually shifted toward
“internationalization" to suit the times and integration of the people.
He commented that
the taste of a lot of Vietnamese food, which represents the Vietnamese spirit
is currently being adapted to suit the tastes of Western diners. Norbert has
felt the delicious traditional Vietnamese dishes are becoming rarer. He still
can eat Solanum macrocarpon deep fried with shrimp paste as a true
representative of real Vietnamese cuisine, though unfortunately the shrimp
paste is still a little smelly. He likes to eat Vietnamese food the way that
local Vietnamese do. "The dishes are like a beautiful Vietnamese girl,
very honest and rustic but also noble, gentle and sometimes extremely
intense" - Norbert similed .
After nearly twenty years, Norbert has built himself a
comfortable life here; the job and the people he loves and with whom he likes
to share thoughts, are here. HCM City has changed a lot from when he arrived,
but the things that sustained him then, are still intact; the rhythm of his
life as well as the warmth of the Vietnamese people. In his office there is a
large, brilliant vase and a jar of Ochna integerrima flower, sometimes called “Hoa
mai”, plus sakura flowers called “Hoa đào”. Also he has pictures of girl
and plump boy wearing red clothes and smiling. Norbert is not the talkative
type, he perceives his life to be quite simple. He expressed his happiness
about the fact that he can live doing the job that he loves, and therefore
doesn’t feel the need to pay too much attention to other issues.
Followed by
Thu Hien
Weekend Saigon Business
magazine