Vietnamese cuisine doesn't win any points for complexity. Many of the most popular dishes can be made just as well on the side of the road as in a top-end restaurant.
But
it's precisely this simplicity, the subtle variations by region and the fresh
ingredients that keep us pulling up a plastic stool for more.
1. Pho
Cheap can be tasty too.
What
list of Vietnamese cuisine would be complete without pho? It's almost
impossible to walk a block in Vietnam's major cities without bumping into a
crowd of hungry patrons slurping noodles at a makeshift pho stand.
This
simple staple consisting of a salty broth, fresh rice noodles, a sprinkling of
herbs and chicken or beef, features predominately in the local diet - and
understandably so. It's cheap, tasty, and widely available at all hours.
Just look out for a
mass of people on plastic stools - or try a tried and tested favorite: Pho
Thin, 13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi.
2. Cha ca
A food so good they named a street after it.
Hanoians
consider cha ca to be so exceptional that there is a street in the capital
dedicated to these fried morsels of fish.
This
namesake alley is home to Cha Ca La Vong, which serves sizzling chunks of fish
seasoned with garlic, ginger, turmeric and dill on a hot pan tableside.
Cha
Ca La Vong may be the busiest but the service is a bit gruff and the food
overpriced. Instead make your way to Duong Than in Hanoi's Hoan Kiem district,
where you'll find plenty of more affordable but just as tasty options.
3. Banh xeo
A crepe you won't forget.
A
good banh xeo is a crispy crepe bulging with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts,
plus the garnish of fresh herbs that are characteristic of most authentic
Vietnamese dishes.
To
enjoy one like a local, cut it into manageable slices, roll it up in rice paper
or lettuce leaves and dunk it in whatever special sauce the chef has mixed up
for you.
Banh Xeo 46A has
mixed reviews but judging by the crowds that swarm there each night they must
be doing something right. Banh Xeo, 46A Dinh Cong Trang, District 1, Ho Chi
Minh City (HCMC).
4. Cao lau
Soft, crunchy, sweet, spicy - a bowl of contrasts.
This
pork noodle dish from Hoi An is a bit like the various cultures that visited
the trading port at its prime. The thicker noodles are similar to Japanese
udon, the crispy won-ton crackers and pork are a Chinese touch, while the broth
and herbs are clearly Vietnamese.
Authentic
cau lao is made only with water drawn from the local Ba Le well.
Try Morning Glory,
106 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An.
5. Rau muong
Some
might call it river weed - with good reason - but that doesn't stop the masses
from scarfing down platefuls of morning glory, usually stir-fried and seasoned
with slithers of potent garlic.
Rau
muong is common at Vietnamese restaurants and beer gardens.
Chung Den Bia Hoi,
18B Hang Cot, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
6. Nem ran/cha gio
Vietnam's
bite-sized crunchy spring rolls might not enjoy the same popularity as their
healthier fresh equivalent, but they deserve a special mention.
The
crispy shell with a soft veggie and meat filling dunked in a tangy sauce gets
the gastronomic juices flowing before a main course. In the north these parcels
go by the name nem ran while southerners call them cha gio.
Bun Cha, 1 Hang Manh,
Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
7. Goi cuon
A healthier choice for spring roll fans.
These
light and healthy fresh spring rolls are a wholesome choice when you've been
indulging in too much of the fried food in Vietnam.
The
translucent parcels are first packed with salad greens, a slither of meat or
seafood and a layer of coriander, before being neatly rolled and dunked in
Vietnam's favorite condiment -- fish sauce.
Quan An Ngon, 18 Phan
Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
8. Bun bo Hue
Central
Vietnam's take on noodles caters to carnivores with its meaty broth and piles
of beef and pork. The thick slippery rice noodles also make for a heartier meal
than noodles found in the north and south.
You don't have to go
to Hue to enjoy this dish; if in Ho Chi Minh City try Tib Express, 162
NguyenDinh Chieu, District 3, HCMC.
9. Banh khot
Bite-size, delightful Vietnamese pancakes.
This
dainty variation of a Vietnamese pancake has all the same tasty ingredients but
is a fraction of the size. Each banh knot can be scoffed in one ambitious but
satisfying mouthful.
The
crunchy outside is made using coconut milk and the filling usually consists of
shrimp, mung beans, and spring onions with a dusting of dried shrimp flakes on
top.
Co Ba Vung Tau, 59B
Cao Thang, District 3, HCMC.
10. Ga tan
Got
the sniffles? Opt for ga tan, a broth that's Vietnam's answer to the proverbial
cup of chicken noodle soup. Sure it's not quite how your mother used to make
it, with its greenish tinge from the herbs and hunks of chicken parts, but it's
worth a try if you're needing a Vietnamese tonic.
Try this at one of
the street stalls on Hanoi's Tong Duy Tan aka Pho Am Thuc, or "Food
Street," Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
11. Nom hoa chuoi
Vietnam's
banana flower salad packs a much bigger punch than a typical plate of mixed
greens.
Banana
flowers (thick purple lumps that will later turn into bunches of bananas) are
peeled and thinly sliced then mixed with green papaya, carrots, and cilantro
along with chicken and a heavy-handed pour of a salty fish sauce dressing and
crunchy peanuts.
Highway 4 restaurant,
3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
12. Bun bo nam bo
One of Vietnam's most-loved noodle dishes.
This
bowl of noodles comes sans broth, keeping the ingredients from becoming sodden
and the various textures intact. The tender slices of beef mingle with crunchy
peanuts and bean sprouts, and are flavored with fresh herbs, crisp dried
shallots, and a splash of fish sauce and fiery chili pepper.
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan
Kiem district, Hanoi.
13. Hoa qua dam
This
chunky blend of fresh tropical fruit in a cup is the perfect local treat when
the heat of Vietnamese summer starts to wear you down. It could be considered a
healthy alternative to ice cream - if you stick to the shaved ice variation - but
for the full experience it's best had with diabetes-inducing condensed milk
mixed in.
14. Pho cuon
Pho
cuon packages the flavors of pho and goi cuon in one neat little parcel. This
Hanoi take on fresh spring rolls uses sheets of uncut pho noodles to encase
fried beef, herbs and lettuce or cucumber.
The best place to
find them is on Ngu Xa island on the capital's Truc Bach Lake -- specifically
at 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh district, Hanoi.
15. Ga nuong
This beats KFC any day.
KFC
may be everywhere in Vietnam these days, but skip the fast food for the local
version. Honey marinated then grilled over large flaming barbecues, the chicken
legs, wings and feet served are unusually tender, while the skin stays crispy
but not dry.
Viet Ha on Ly Van
Phuc, Dong Da district, Hanoi.
16. Pho xao
Pho
xao may just be a slightly healthier take on my xao -- but the beauty is in the
details. The flat, smoother pho noodle doesn't crisp up like its pre-boiled
instant cousin.
When
done well the outer edges acquire a browned crunchiness, whilst the center
stays soft and glutinous. This dish tastes best with a fried egg and seasoned
with chili or soy sauce.
26 Nguyen Khac Sieu,
Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
17. Ca phe trung
Vietnamese
"egg coffee" is technically a drink but we prefer to put it in the
dessert category. The creamy soft, meringue-like egg white foam perched on the
dense Vietnamese coffee will have even those who don't normally crave a cup of
joe licking their spoons with delight.
In Hanoi, follow the
tiny alley between the kitschy souvenir shops at 11 Hang Gai into the clearing,
and up several flights of increasingly dicey stairs to pair your ca phe trung
with an unbeatable view of Hoan Kiem Lake.
18. Bo la lot
Vietnamese
are masters of wrapping their food. Bo la lot is neither raw nor deep-fried,
but flamed on an open grill to soften the exterior and infuse the betel leaf's
peppery aroma into the ground beef inside.
3T Quan Nuong, 29-31
Ton That Thiep, District 1, HCMC.
19. Xoi
This savory sticky rice is a meal all on its own.
Savory
sticky rice is less of an accompaniment to meals in Vietnam, more a meal
itself. The glutinous staple comes with any number of mix-ins (from slithers of
chicken, or pork to fried or preserved eggs), but almost always with a
scattering of dried shallots on top.
Xoi Yen, Nguyen Huu
Huan, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
20. Banh cuon
Delicious savory pancakes.
These
rolled up rice flour pancakes are best when served piping hot, still soft and
delicate. Although seemingly slender and empty they have a savory filling of
minced pork and mushrooms.
Zest
is also added by dunking the slippery parcels in a fishy dipping sauce.
21. Ca tim kho to
Eggplant
alone tends not to get us excited. Although when it's diced and sauteed in a
clay pot along with tomatoes, soy sauce, sugar, and (depending on the recipe)
minced meat, the once bland vegetable redeems itself.
Pineapple Restaurant,
35 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
22. Bot chien
Bot Chien is Vietnamese street food at its best.
Saigon's
favorite streetside snack, bot chien, is popular with both the afterschool and
the after-midnight crowd. Chunks of rice flour dough are fried in a large wok
until crispy and then an egg is broken into the mix.
Once
cooked it's served with slices of papaya, shallots and green onions, before
more flavor is added with pickled chili sauce and rice vinegar.
Night-time food
vendors sell this at the corners of Pham Ngu Lao and Cong Quynh, District 1,
HCMC.
23. Bun dau mam tom
This
plain-looking tofu and noodle dish is served with mam tom sauce - the Vegemite
of Vietnam. The pungent purple dipping sauce is used to flavor the slabs of
deep-fried tofu that are at the core of the meal.
24. Banh goi
These
pockets of deep-fried goodness are often described as the equivalent of a
Cornish pasty or as a Vietnamese samosa, depending on the nationality of the
person explaining.
Inside
the crispy exterior you'll find that it's similar to neither description, with
its filling of finely minced pork, mushrooms and vermicelli noodles.
25. Com suon nuong
This
simple meal is the Saigonese equivalent of bun cha -- with rice in place of
noodles. A tender pork cutlet is barbecued over hot coals to give it a rich,
smoky flavor, and laid over the fluffy white "com" or broken rice.
Com Tam Cali has a
number of branches across HCMC. Try Tam Cali 1 at 32 Nguyen Trai, District 1,
HCMC.
26. Chao
With
its thick and creamy texture Vietnam's rice porridge is the best pick when your
queasy stomach can't handle much else. If you want to jazz it up you can always
add slices of chicken, fish, beef, duck or pork ribs, along with a sprinkling of
herbs and shallots.
Chao Ca specializes
in fish chao, 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
27. Bo luc lac
Cubes
of beef are tossed around a steaming wok with garlic, pepper, and some
vegetables to make shaking beef. There's nothing special about the beef that
makes it shaking.
The
name is just a literal translation that refers to the process of mixing the
beef around while cooking.
Nha Hang Ngon, 160
Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.
28. Hat de nong
The
smell of chestnuts roasting on an open fire can bring back fond memories of
Christmas carols - until a moped transporting a giant blow-up Santa whizzes
by. Pick the street vendor with the most enticing smell.
29. Banh uot thit
nuong
It's
all about the marinade when it comes to the grilled pork in fresh rice paper
rolls that are popular in central Vietnam.
The
typical mixture coats the meat in a blend of sugar, salt, chili, lemongrass and
fish sauce. Cilantro, basil and mint are added when it's served up to add some
green to the appetizer.
Morning Glory, 106
Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An.
30. Bun cha
The perfect lunchtime treat.
Pho
might be Vietnam's most famous dish but bun cha is the top choice when it comes
to lunchtime in the capital.
Just
look for the clouds of meaty smoke after 11 a.m. when street-side restaurants
start grilling up small patties of seasoned pork and slices of marinated pork
belly over a charcoal fire. Once they're charred and crispy the morsels are
served with a large bowl of a fish sauce-heavy broth, a basket of herbs and a
helping of rice noodles.
Hanoi's most famous
bun cha outlet is 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
31. Banh mi
The world-famous banh mi sandwich.
The
French may have brought with them the baguette, but Vietnam takes it to a
different level. How exactly depends on what end of the country you're in.
In
the north chefs stick to the basic elements of carbohydrate, fat and protein -
bread, margarine and pata - but head south and your banh mi may contain a more
colorful combination of cheese, cold cuts, pickled vegetables, sausage, fried
egg, fresh cilantro and chili sauce.
One of the better
baguette vendors in Saigon sets up shop beside the Cherry mini-mart on Do Quang
Dao, District 1, HCMC.
32. Lau
Eating
this hodgepodge hotpot dish is a communal affair with everyone digging in to
the oversized boiling pot. We've found that just about anything can (and will)
go into this soup from tofu to frogs.
It's
best to stick to one main protein rather than opting for the mix of meat,
poultry and seafood together.
On the northern edge
of Hanoi's Truc Bach lake you'll find a number of restaurant staff crossing the
street to deliver lau to lake-side diners.
33. Banh bao
The Vietnamese take on steamed pork burns.
Steamed
pork buns aren't traditionally Vietnamese but that doesn't stop the spongy
rolls from being sold by street vendors and in traditional Vietnamese
restaurants.
The
best buns have a hard-boiled quail egg buried within the minced meat, while the
cheaper ones come without any filling at all. Remember the lower the price the
less stuffing, so you might not be getting the good deal you thought you were.
Often sold by
wandering vendors patrolling Hanoi's Old Quarter at all hours. In the south try
Banh Bao Tho Phat, 78 Nguyen Tri Phuong, District 5, HCMC
34. Com rang
Fried
rice may not be the most adventurous option, but sometimes you just want some
familiar grub done right. Baby-sized chunks of meat and colorful vegetables are
mixed with soy and fish sauce in a wok streetside to create a rice dish that is
still moist but slightly smoky.
Make
it Vietnamese by supplementing with Bia Hanoi.
Try one of the
vendors on Tong Duy Tan aka "Food Street," Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi.
35. Bo bit tet
Vietnam's
equivalent to steak and eggs fills the void when you're hankering for some
greasy pub tucker. The thin flank steak is usually served with eggs, thick
potato wedges, and Vietnamese meatballs on a sizzling cast iron plate.
36. Com chay
Com
chay refers to two things in Vietnam: vegetarian food, or Vietnam's homemade
rice crispies that are popular with children. Unlike the sweet treats in the
United States, Vietnam's version of a crispy comes with meat instead of
marshmallows.
Vietnam's
vegetarian restaurants use mock meats to create all the traditional dishes and
usually do a pretty good job. Although some places include artificial creations
we would rather not try. Fake rubbery snails anyone?
Try Hoa Dang
vegetarian restaurant, 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, District 1, HCMC.
37. Che
This
dessert can be served in either a bowl or a glass. The latter is the more
enticing option with the visible layers of bean jelly, coconut milk, fruit, and
ice.
Best
had when you're craving something sweet on a scorching day in Saigon.
Nha Hang Ngon, 160
Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.
38. My xao bo
Mix
noodles with a dollop of oil, then add beef, onions, garlic, morning glory and
some tomato for color and you have a platter of my xao bo. The whole dish takes
about as long to make as instant noodles -- but oh so much more flavor.
Any bia hoi
establishment serves this dish, but the eateries on Tang Bat Ho, Hoan Kiem
District, Hanoi, have perfected it
39. Dau phu sot ca
chua
The
English translation of "tofu in tomato sauce" doesn't really do this
dish justice. The slabs of deep-fried soy are doused in a rich fresh tomato and
spring onion coating, and seasoned with a speckle of fresh herbs.
Chim Sao at 65 Ngo
Hue, Hai Ba Trung district, Hanoi.
40. Canh bun
Another
hearty soup that's high on the lunchtime agenda, this is a crab and morning
glory noodle soup. Canh bun is similar to the more well-known bun rieu crab
soup, but has a small handful of variations -- including the type of noodle
used.
Look for street food
vendors with Canh Bun on handwritten signs surrounded by lunchtime crowds, or
visit Bun Saigon at 73 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, HCMC
** Editor's note:
This article was previously published in 2011. It was reformatted and
republished in 2017.
By CNN Travel